Azelaic acid is the stronger choice for active breakouts and stubborn marks, while niacinamide is the gentler option that works gradually and plays nicely with everything else.

• Azelaic acid targets the bacteria behind breakouts and blocks pigment production at the same time.
• Niacinamide works slower but calms redness and evens tone with almost zero irritation risk.
• With hormonal acne and hyperpigmentation like mine, I use niacinamide daily and bring in a stronger active when I need it.
• Studies show 5% niacinamide can visibly improve tone in about 4 weeks - mine's double that concentration.
• Texture, marks and breakouts don't fix overnight - consistency matters more than which product you pick.

SPF, a vitamin C or niacinamide, and an exfoliant (AHA/BHA) or retinol at night - that's the trio dermatologists keep coming back to, and you don't need to spend a fortune to get it.

• Sunscreen every single day - most visible ageing and pigmentation comes down to sun exposure.
• Niacinamide is the more affordable, gentler starting point than vitamin C if your skin is reactive - mine's 10%.
• An exfoliant (AHA or BHA) or retinol at night keeps cell turnover going so product actually absorbs.
• Skin Functional's serums start from around R55, so building this out doesn't have to break the bank.
• Skip the 12-step routine - these three actives, used consistently, do most of the heavy lifting.